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Question Regarding Bleached Flour
- Question: I know that the ancients could
separate chaff and wheat,and reduce the grain down to the
wheat berry. The wheat could be stoneground very fine
indeed. But for the life of me, I don't know of one
reference of the ancients subjecting the wheat to being
bleached.
My understanding is that modern white bleached flour is a
product of the World Wars in this century, developed to
try and enhance the shelf-life of flour. But it is so
nutritionally bland and chemical tasting that rats won't
even eat it.
I would not advocate using whole wheat flour, but there
must be an alternative to bleached white flour. Is
there not an unbleached white flour available? Until I
know of one, I use white bleached flour. But I would
never claim that it is exactly what our Fathers in the
Faith used.
Answer: I have a very reliable source on
the matter, from which I would like to quote: On Food
and Cooking by Harold McGee (this book is in cooking
circles considered to be authoritative).
Page 290-
"After flour has been ground and blended to the
desired mix of particles, it is treated chemically to
accomplish in a matter of minutes what otherwise takes
weeks. Bleaching removes the light yellow color
caused by xanthophylls, a variety of carotenoid also
found in potatoes and onions. The color has no practical
or nutritional significance and is oxidized simply to
obtain a uniform whiteness. Bleaching does,
however, destroy small amounts of vitamin E in flour,
which probably accounts for its bad reputation in some
circles. For historical reasons, yellow coloration
is valued in pasta, and so semolina is never bleached.
"Bleaching is often accomplished with the same gas,
chlorine dioxide, that is used to age or
"improve" the flour. But even unbleached
flour has been aged with potassium bromate or
iodate. Aging has important practical
results. It has long been known that flour allowed
to sit for one or two months develops better baking
qualities; hence the practice of letting flour age before
use (during this period, it is also naturally bleached by
oxygen in the air). But done in this way, aging is
a time- and space consuming, somewhat unpredictable
procedure. Hence the use of chemicals both to
accelerate and to control flour improvement. Aging
effects the bonding characteristics of the gluten
proteins in such a way that they form stronger, more
elastic doughs."
So, what he's saying is that the modern bleaching
practice is something like using dry yeast: the Fathers
(or dare I say mothers!) left a lump of dough out to
collect naturally occurring yeast particles since they
didn't have little jars of Fleischmann's at the
bazaar. When I was in Greece, I picked up on this
when I noticed that peasant bread (using local flour) was
indeed yellow. The island didn't have the modern
facilities to age its flour with chemicals, nor did they
have the inclination to risk letting their flour sit
around for a few months and risk dampness, wild yeasts,
etc. Mr. McGee also points out that this process
improve elasticity in dough. This is extremely
important in light of the alternative: crumbing! I
know our parish priest dreads loaves that crumb, as it
complicates his clean up and his efforts to appropriately
handle the Gifts.
The Fathers don't discuss it simply because they took it
for granted. White flour was the best for what they
needed it for, and people wouldn't think to bring
anything lesser as sacrifice. White flour, in which
the outer bran has been polished off, dates back long
before the birth of Christ. Asians typically eat rice
with the bran polished off (white rice) and have done so
for thousands of years. Around 400BC, Hippocrates wrote
of the differences between white and brown flour. Around
the same time as Aristotle, the culinary writer
Archestratus sung the praises of white bread from Lesbos
in his book, Gastronomia (McGee, p. 282). McGee
goes on to say that classical Greeks had a deep affinity
for white flour.
The use of white flour is also witnessed in two other
ways: the ecclesial arts (which spared no expense, since
the process of polishing off bran is more costly in the
loss as well as labor) and the witness of monastic
centers (who both rigidly hold to the practices handed
down to them and use white flour). Unlike the West,
technology and science has never posed problems to our
Faith. We thank God for the conveniences!
There is "unbleached" white flour which is
available in most markets with a decent selection, but,
as you read, the process is much the same as it is for
the bleached.
When rats are given the choice of hot dogs or bags of
white flour, my experience has always been that the
invariably go for the hot dogs!
I hope I have satisfactorily answered your
question. Please also let me know if I can provide
any further information.